They say that most travellers pass straight through Kathmandu, to concentrate on the drama of Nepal’s high altitude challenge – the lure of prayer flags in the snow.
But the city itself is well worth your time, cleaner but no less frenetic than most south Asian cities, it has a food scene (every cuisine, in every restaurant, any time of day) and a lot of history; ancient Buddhist architecture in town and along the valley. Oh, and shopping, particularly The North Face – original and replica – you choose, if you’re leaving town for the mountains you’ll need a down jacket and a duffel bag.
This is Boudhanath Stupa, a taxi ride from the city or a shorter one from the airport. Even at first light it’s busy – worshippers doing pradakshina, a clockwise circumambulation; twirling the prayer wheels for good measure, before the business of the day.