That’s the name that became widely used in colonial times; and is still used by the locals and on the railways for this ancient city – Varanasi – continually inhabited, they say, for at least 5,000 years. Then it would have been known as Kashi, from the Sanskrit word to shine.
And at dawn, shine is what it does.
At the right time of year it’s possible to walk the length of more or less all 84 ghats (the flights of steps leading down to the River Ganga and portraying the city’s cultural & religious significance), but at this time of year, just post-monsoon, the tide is high and the river silt sits everywhere.
But in any event, the best way to see the city and its rituals is by boat and at sunrise if you can. It’s never quiet here but at dawn quiet and ritual contemplation descends over the river bank.
Of all the ghats only two are working crematoria, although the spiritual significance of the river runs deep.
