Just three nights in Marrakesh and I wasn’t really interested in getting up at dawn, in my defence I don’t think many Moroccans are early risers either. But the late afternoon light of a 20 degree winter is much more accessible – and rewarding.
Not in new Marrakesh but in the Medina, the tourist-packed, beating, ancient, heart of the city. After an absence of fifteen years I can see the signs of it slowly gentrifying – very slowly.
But here in Jemaa el-Fnaa it’s sunset bustle as usual, earlier in the day there’s snake charmers but the bored and lazy snakes have definitely heard it all before.